Well, Xiamen is a city and I have visited cities before but I have never lived in one. Cities are quite exciting and that is the way Xiamen is. There are lots of things to look at and do and thousands of shops that are open from early morning to late at night. Viny and Natasha like shopping and I go along to make sure they don’t get lost – something they do really well. The first thing to know is that the more major the street, the less interesting it is. There are lots of fashion boutiques and big shops. Not a tig welder in sight. There are also lots of supermarkets and the ones that are of particular interest are the western ones. There is a glimmer of hope that they may sell marmite but I have never seen it. Some sell real cheese but at 4 times the price of UK. The western supermarkets do sell milk and yoghurt, processed cheese and a thing that they call bread. It is sweet, more like cake and often is oily and/or has things inside it. Sometimes you can be really surprised by having something like a piece of meat or something else quite incompatible with the like cakey stuff. Interestingly, since the diet is not bread-based, there are few things that you would eat with bread. Then there are also all the other things that make up our diet, like cornflakes and other cereals that are nothing like what we have at home.
There are a number of western style supermarkets, Tesco, WalMart, TrustMart, RTMart, Rainbow, Carrefour and the big one METRO. However, they all sell pretty much the same things and at much the same prices. (also some independent ones). Also there are shopping Malls that have hundreds of independent stalls.
Some of these supermarkets are pretty darn big. 200m x 150m but as a vegetarian (something you acquire when you see the meat here) there is very little that you would want to buy. It’s meat with everything. Even if you go to a restaurant and explain that you do not want any meat, you find bits of pork in your noodles cos they cannot conceive of anyone not wanting meat. Either that or it was something left over in the bottom of the pan.
The next thing I learned is that there seems no legal requirement for a product to do what it says on the tin. Or at least not the English bit. For example, here is a pillow. It removes liver heat and improves your eyesight. In the UK there would need to be some sort of justification for this; a sort of first order causality.
Other things, like 100% orange juice one would expect to be 100% orange, but you only have to taste it to know that this is not the case. Maybe they meant that 100% of the orange was dissolved into a soup of chemicals. It would be interesting to know what the Chinese says. This is another issue. You have a packaging that is opaque and covered in Chinese characters. What is it? What kind of food is it? If I bought it, how should I cook it? (silly question: you deep fat fry it, like everything else here.) Then there is the packaging. On the whole, china is very environmentally aware. All lights are high efficiency, many of the busses are LPG, all motor bikes are electric – at least in the city. But many of the foods are double or triple packed. The biscuits that I am eating at the moment for example; the outer packaging is thick plastic and as strong as polycarbonate. No hope of getting through that even with your teeth. The next layer is thinner clear plastic and then inside that, every biscuit is individually wrapped but the wrapping is quite tough. You start by trying to tear it, and then you try with your teeth, then more extreme measures until you eventually succeed and a pile of crumbs falls out. On the positive side all our rubbish is sorted and recycled.
Other things, like 100% orange juice one would expect to be 100% orange, but you only have to taste it to know that this is not the case. Maybe they meant that 100% of the orange was dissolved into a soup of chemicals. It would be interesting to know what the Chinese says. This is another issue. You have a packaging that is opaque and covered in Chinese characters. What is it? What kind of food is it? If I bought it, how should I cook it? (silly question: you deep fat fry it, like everything else here.) Then there is the packaging. On the whole, china is very environmentally aware. All lights are high efficiency, many of the busses are LPG, all motor bikes are electric – at least in the city. But many of the foods are double or triple packed. The biscuits that I am eating at the moment for example; the outer packaging is thick plastic and as strong as polycarbonate. No hope of getting through that even with your teeth. The next layer is thinner clear plastic and then inside that, every biscuit is individually wrapped but the wrapping is quite tough. You start by trying to tear it, and then you try with your teeth, then more extreme measures until you eventually succeed and a pile of crumbs falls out. On the positive side all our rubbish is sorted and recycled.
Last year I bought a 32Gb pen drive. I kind of didn’t believe it but it was £4 so I thought, what the heck. At home, the computer confirmed that it was 32Gb. I tried reformatting it and 32Gb of it was formatted. So, the big test. Stick 32Gb of stuff on it. After 16Gb it kept going but after that the first 18Gb was garbage. Well, it was 16Gb of memory, with a controller that told the computer it was 32Gb. I thought that even as 16Gb it was worth £4. However, being a messer, I thought I could write to the memory controller and tell it that it was 16Gb. I did this but it never squeeked again.
The point is that a great deal of effort goes into fraudulent products but some products are both fraudulent and crap (Viny has authorised the use of this word). Natasha tried 10 headsets before finding one that worked and a power supply that didn’t work. They all look like top brands but when you read the small print that says that they are authentic, you see spelling mistakes that tell you that it is a fake. However, if it is cheap enough and it has a warranty, then why not.
Here is another interesting thing. In some mega shops – that is shops that have floor areas of just under a square mile, there are no customers! One such shop for instance is B&Q though not big by Xiamen standards; it is about twice as big as the one in Coleraine. There were no customers but many uniformed staff. It seems like there is no need for the staff to pretend that they are busy. They just sit round playing cards and chatting. However, if you divert you eyes from straight ahead to look at some item, the staff rush to you to be of assistance. They must be bored out of their minds. Other places like a shop called Oriental Homes has a floor area of maybe 200m x 200m and three stories high. The bottom floor is things like tools and building materials and the next two floors are exquisite and very expensive furniture. But there were no customers; the whole place was empty except for us and the staff. How do they justify their existence? An amazing coincidence though, just as we were leaving, a friend of ours arrived. This is about 10 miles from where we all live.
Another kind of shopping is the old town. You can find bits of the old town interleaved with the new town. In these ancient alleys there are all kinds of shops selling stuff. Food can be bought either to take away or to eat in. An egg noodle could be as little as 50p but a proper meal maybe £1 - £1.50. The shop and the houses are sort of the same thing. The shop will sort of be in the living room with the granny propped up in the corner and the kids eating their supper watching the telly, and you browsing through the fruit stall. This is not really that unusual even if the house isn’t a shop. Many people would have their evening meal on the pavement.
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